If I see another hill…

After yesterday’s cycle, I woke up wondering how my legs would feel.  It’s all very well planning a 14 day cycling trip only to find your legs give up after day one!  I had had a good sleep, and this was followed by an excellent full-English breakfast.

A quick word about planning.  I have booked accommodation for all 14 nights, so I don’t need to worry about where I am staying, or spending hours on the phone trying to find somewhere when everything is booked up.  I was wondering whether that was going to be too restrictive, in that I may find I am cycling quicker or slower than planned, but in hindsight I think it was the right thing.  I have been past many B&Bs with ‘no vacancies’ signs outside them, and I think this would stress me out wondering where I am going to sleep after a day’s riding.  Most places were found on tripadvisor.

Last night I stayed at Hormond House in Fowey.  I can’t recommend it enough: Bella and her son were very friendly and welcoming, it was clean, the breakfast was great and it should have cost only £35.  When I say should have cost, Bella didn’t have £5 change for my two £20 notes, so gave me £10 in change, so it only cost £30, and was insistent that was all it was going to cost.  Highly recommended. www.hormondhouse.com

The first 10 miles were fantastic – blue skies, cycling on a costal road surrounded by green fields full of cows.  More than once I couldn’t stop myself laughing out loud!

I took a very steep, single lane road downhill, and was worried I had taken a wrong turn (I hadn’t), but ended up at an great little bridge in the middle of nowhere crossing a stream.

Unfortunately, that meant a long road uphill back to the top of the hill.  Down to the lowest gear and start pedalling…

Quickly I came to Looe and crossed the bridge that spans the East and West Looe rivers.  Very original.  Apparently it was built in 1853 and cost £2,980 which doesn’t seem too much, even then.

A few more miles of riding and I encountered the most difficult climb so far.  I have done steep climbs, and long climbs, but this was both.  I try and keep looking down at the front wheel, that way you don’t see how far it is to go (and get disheartened), but this went on… and on… and on.  I got to the top and collapsed by the side of the road to take a break – not pretty!  I did it, though!

The off to Torpoint where I stocked up at a petrol station with a sandwich, pasta salad and water, and then cycled to the Torpoint Ferry which crosses over to Plymouth. 

As I crossed over to the Plymouth side, on my left were the Devonport boatyards which looked like massive aircraft hangars… but big enough for ships.  I’ve never seen anything like it.  On the ferry I met another ‘end-to-ender’ who is following a similar route to me, and we came across each other a few times during the rest of the day.

Navigating through Plymouth was painful, and the traffic very heavy, so it was good to get out of the place and back on more quiet roads.  Eventually I hit Dartmoor National Park.  The sign looks like something (animal?  Car?) had some sort of disagreement with it!

I’ve been to Dartmoor a few times, but always in the car.  Travelling at bike-speed is a very different experience.  For example, I took a break to eat my pasta salad…

… and noticed that next to me had wandered a wild pony with her foal!

The other thing I notice travelling by bike (much more than by car) is the scenery, the noises of the countryside…

… and, of course, the hills…

In my mind today I kept thinking “if I see another bl**dy hill…” but clearly I am deluding myself given I’ve got to get from Devon to the North of Scotland.  When I took my bike for a service, I asked them if they could put a lower gear on it.  The mechanic replied saying he could, but in a “the lowest gear is fine, we never normally put anything lower on, maybe you should do some training” which I heard as “man up, you wuss”.  Clearly I didn’t change that gear.  Clearly I now wish I had been more of a wuss, as I am paying the price now.

Through Dartmoor, past lots of animals…

… I came across Dartmoor prison.  Even on a hot summer’s day it really did look quite frightening and very imposing. 

This evening I looked up a bit about it, as it was such a strange sight in the middle of a very bleak landscape.  Building started in 1805 and it was completed in 1809 to house French prisoners, who had been kept in rotting hulls moored in Plymouth.  It lay empty from 1815 but from 1850 has been in constant use, and had the reputation as the toughest prison in the country. 

Back on the road through some amazing landscapes…

… and more awful hills…

The highlight of the day was 2 miles outside of Mortonhampstead, where I was quite tired but making good time.  I was going up (another) hill on a small road, and to my left was a little clearing overlooking some fields.  I stopped the bike, took my helmet and gloves off, lay down in the sun and closed my eyes.  Absolute bliss!  In the end I dozed in the grass for about half an hour, happy as Larry.

Eventually I reached to Mortonhampstead, tired, headed for a café for some food and then wandered over to the B&B.  It will be an early pub dinner and then bed, for tomorrow is a longer day (but flatter), heading for Wells in Somerset where I hope to meet up with my Dad who is coming over there.

Finally, a summary of today’s route

I've just noticed it says 'KOM on Sclerder Ln Climb'. My Garmin cycling computer works out how quickly I go through various segments, and puts them on a leaderboard.  Wherever 'Sclerder Ln Climb' is, I'm now the fastest on that segment, the King of the Mountain!  Yipee!  I know, how childish, but it makes me happy!)