An early update

An quick and early update today, as I’m in Lairg, 50 miles from Inverness and only about 14 miles to the Crask Inn, which is in the middle of nowhere (with no internet connection).  Tomorrow will be a busy, and hard, day as I push for John O’Groats so I thought I’d stop in a layby, by a lake, and write this update. 

It’s also a very special day today – my son Theo’s sixth birthday – so I want to speak to him whilst I still have a signal.  Happy birthday Theo!

Well I failed to get a spoke.  First off was Bikes of Inverness, who had the spoke for the left side of the wheel but not the right (I didn’t even know they were different).  Highland Bikes couldn’t help, suggesting the nearest Mavic dealer was in Paris (very helpful, thank you).  Tiso Adventure Sports even stock Mavic Aksium wheels, but not the spokes.  I was tempted to buy a new rear wheel, and post the old one home, but they said their delivery lorry was going to be in an hour or two, and you know that means half a day.  The first bike shop had an idea.  The reason why the wheel was wobbling is because there is more tension on one side of the wheel (that has more spokes) than the other.  They loosened the tension on some of the remaining spokes, and amazingly enough the wheel wobble has gone done dramatically.  I have therefore taken the decision to run with it as it stands.  I hope it was the right decision!

So it was more faffing around this morning, going round industrial estates looking for different bike dealers.

If you look carefully in the picture above, the shop on the left of Tiso is called LHD Lights – very bizarre selling left hand drive lights in the north of Scotland!

Eventually got to the Kessock Bridge, which spans the Moray Firth (to the East) and Beauly Firth (to the West).  It was built in 1982 to support North Sea oil expansion, and I was really looking forward to stopping on it and looking out – apparently you can see dolphins and porpoises.

However there was only one lane because of roadworks.  Disaster!  I therefore had to cycle across with a loooooong line of traffic behind me.  I’m sure people behind were understanding, but in my mind I felt lots of frustration in the traffic having to cross the bridge at 12mph. 

As soon as I exited the bridge I went on the back roads where the scenery was a bit nicer.

Crossing the River Conon.

And then climbing the hills on the other side.

I went through a village called Evanton which had a time capsule laid inside a monument, and also a rickety old house which looked like a time capsule from another era.

The scenery then really opened up on the B9167 known locally as ‘The Struie’ which is across some pretty wild and barren landscape.

This hill had a really unusual row of trees half way up – from a distance they looked like ants!

Then descending on The Struie past the Cadha Mor viewpoint which had a magnificent view of the Highlands.

The road was pretty steep, and the descent took it out on my front brakes (remember I’m not using my back brakes!), which resulted in the fronts overheating.  I had to let them cool down before continuing.  How about that – brake fade on a bike!

Through Scotland I’ve passed a few of these AA boxes, which don’t seem to be used anymore but this one was in great condition – somebody had clearly given it a lick of paint.  Most of the others I’ve seen are a bit run-down.

And then over the Bonar Bridge which spans the Dornoch Firth and the Kyle of Sutherland.

Further on I passed this railway bridge at a place called Shin.  It really did look like it had been made from Irn Bru girders.

From the open spaces along the Struie, I was now following the Shin creek (and past the grandly named ‘Falls of Shin’ – not exactly the Victoria Falls).

It looked like someone had been playing with matches at the Falls of Shin visitor’s centre.

Through the forest, alongside the Shin Creek.

And finally at Lairg, where I am writing this update, overlooking this lake.

I’ll finish this once I have the full day’s route, but the plan tomorrow will be an early start and then almost 100 miles – about 85 I think to John O’Groats, and then a further 10 or so to my B&B.  I hope the bike holds up!

Update as at 6pm.

I have a very weak data signal on my phone so I will just post a few short comments and add the pictures tomorrow.

After leaving Lairg, I entered some unbelievably barren and open countryside.  I had to keep stopping to take pictures as it was such a change from only an hour beforehand.  I reached the legendary Crask Inn, described as 'the best pub in Great Britain' in my guide book.  It is unlike anything I have been before.  It hasn't changed since the 1960s, it is run by an old couple and the place reminds me of the Munsters!  I have my own room, but am sharing the bathroom with the owners.  Mr Crask Inn has left a copy of Autocar next to the toilet for reading whilst on the throne.  It is dated 20 February 1969, price 2s 5d.  Tested in that issue was a Volvo 144 and a Cortina Automatic - what a classic!  So I ran the bath, and immediately bits started spitting out of the taps.  The brown peaty water seems to come straight from outside - including tons of bracken!    This place truly is something else.  I think I will enjoy it, for all its eccentricity.

Here's my route today.